Hello everyone. First, a great picture of Wes enjoying some Beignets and Chicory coffee at Café Du Monde in New Orleans.
Hahaha, I know right.
On to the latest. We have had a fantastic couple of days at Hueco Tanks. It is considered one of the best bouldering and climbing destinations in the world, and it most definitely lived up to expectations.
After leaving Enchanted Rock, our original plan was to head directly to The Enchanted Tower another world class climbing destination in New Mexico. However, as we drove West on Rt 10 we passed a sign for Hueco Tanks and neither of us had the will power to pass by this mecca of stone. Wes immediately started doing logistical searches on his phone, and we soon agreed to stop at the next Starbucks and pirate some wireless to complete our research. Within an hour or so we had found a place to stay right near Hueco that was a climbing/camping spot. We could rent crash pads (big mattress like pads we placed under boulder problems), take showers, and set up our tent. Excited by the change in plans, and excited to get to Hueco we headed 40 minutes outside of El Paso to the fabled Hueco Tanks.
A little about Hueco Tanks. Hueco's are similar to the bubbles in Swiss cheese except the bubbles are in solid granite. These Hueco's allow for some of the most spectacular and creative boulder problems in the world as a result of their unique shapes. The "tanks" part comes from the water that these Hueco's store during the rainy season.
Back to us. We arrived at the "Hueco Tanks Rock Ranch" at around 6 on Tuesday July 12 after dinner at a ridiculous Mexican place that had amazing decorations and obscenely strong margaritas. The ranch is about a mile from Hueco Tanks and when we arrived there were only two other people staying there. It seemed fairly low key, the amenities were good and the atmosphere was relaxed. The owner of the ranch was supposed to arrive later that night but after talking to one of the other guests, a lady named Becca who was a climber from Utah, I realized it was more likely he would show up the next day. We roped Becca into bouldering with us the next day, set up our tent, got to see a Tarantula (these would become a common and unremarkable occurrence, but I was excited), and passed out.
For those who are unfamiliar with bouldering, here is a brief description. Bouldering is essentially climbing on boulders. Tough to grasp, I know. The routes you climb when bouldering are called "Problems", which describes them perfectly since they usually consist of 5-20 individual moves of intense difficulty. They are a kinetic puzzle and you need to figure out how to use your body to solve them. Each problem is rated from a V1-V15, the grades are somewhat subjective but give you a ballpark estimate of the problems difficulty. In general the problems are about 10-15 ft tall, and after reaching the top you "top-out", continue climbing of the face of the boulder to the top of it.
However, there are some problems that can be described as "highball" problems. These problems range from 20 - 40 ft and one is encouraged not to fall. Highball climbing should really only be attempted when climbing well below your abilities so a fall is very unlikely.
Wes on “Melon Patch” a V0.
The first day out in Hueco was pretty tame. The three of us (we met a lady at the ranch who came with us) had very little experience bouldering so we spent the day by "Warm-up Boulder" a boulder with problems that may have been warm-ups for other people but were very challenging for us. While bouldering one of the park rangers came by to see if we
wanted to see a rattlesnake. Naturally we followed him but only got to see the FIVE FOOT skin of one.
We got our butt's kicked pretty soundly by the bouldering, so bruised and tired we returned to the ranch were the party got started. I had noticed bullet casings littering the front porch of the ranch, but I didn't think much of it until Becca asked if I wanted to see her Sig Pistol. I did. What ensued was a ridiculous amount of shooting off the front porch at bottles stuck in the dirt. This later developed into Skeet shooting with the shotgun, which, if I may say so, I did pretty well; 12 out of 16 clay pigeons.
Charles (the ranch owner) happens to be a retired cop and so he was very helpful in dealing with gun safety, how to shoot …. I'll be honest, I love shooting. It seemed like everyone there did.
Here we are shooting the clay pigeons . The launcher is on the left.
This wasn't the only activity at the ranch. We spent a fair amount of time playing the ever ubiquitous "Settler's of Catan" and "Set", and generally had a good time. Our original plan was to stay for one day, however the climbing was so great and the people so nice that we ended up staying for 4 days of intense climbing. After the first day we started going to Hueco with the locals who took us around the park to some of the best bouldering spots.
Wes on a V0
Me on a "Nobody gets out of here alive". A world famous V2.
Wes on the same problem.
Me on "Skimmer" a V3 I finished on my first try. It was very exciting.
I know, I look angry.
We also climbed two fantastic routes while at Hueco. Well… we attempted one and climbed the other. The first, "Flake Roof" was a spooky climb that started on an angled ledge about 30 feet up. Then it proceeded up a sketchy crack to a roof. Observe.
The route from a distance. Notice the tiny people up on the ledge. The route follows the crack that goes diagonally to the right from them, traverses left below the roof for 10 ft or so, and then goes directly over the roof.
The roof.
This is about as far as I got. I kept taking 15ft falls off this. Which diminished my appetite.
Wes looking badass.
Finally, we did a monolithic climb with ridiculously scant protection going up. Luckily neither of us had to lead this scary monster but it was a beautiful climb.
"Foxtrot"
It's a long way down.
And that's all folks. It is most certainly enough for me.
PS. This is coming from Windows Live Writer, which is a convenient way to post blogs I hope. If this works I’m never using blogger again. (Thanks Emily Yang for the heads up.)